Secrets of Jeri

Posted on Posted in Opinion, Travel
Phil Soltysiak Backloop at Praia de Malhada - photo by Winnie Pix
Phil Soltysiak Backloop at Praia de Malhada – photo by Winnie Pix

So we continue with the eat, sleep, windsurf theme of my blog. After all that’s pretty much all I do. So in this post you’ll read about bakeries, what I do when I should be sleeping in Jeri, and I’ll even squeeze in a bit about windsurfing.

Food secrets – bakeries!!!

There are numerous bakeries here, but my favourites are two you might have never seen while roaming the streets of Jericoacoara.

La Boulangerie in Jeri
La Boulangerie in Jeri

La Boulangerie has a simple selection of croissants and baguettes, and is the only one which offers this european style of baked goods – they’re almost always hot and fresh from the oven. It’s a great morning stop if you’re an early bird who loves a croissant and coffee. Don’t forget to ask for a jar of their maracuja marmalade. It’s situated on the corner of Rua Principal and the 3rd alley crossing between Rua Principal and Rua San Francisco.

Padaria San Antonio in Jericoacoara
Padaria Santo Antonio in Jericoacoara – only open 2am – 5am

The midnight bakery, or Padaria Santo Antonio is no secret to the night owls, but the innocent may not be aware of this hidden gem on their rare nights out. Only open from 2am – 5am, it’s got a selection of “salgados” – savoury baked breads – to satisfy your post “Forro” hunger. The streets of Jeri may be quiet at that time of night, but the midnight bakery is always happening. Find it near the top of Rua San Francisco.

Padaria San Antonio on Rua San Francisco
Padaria Santo Antonio on Rua San Francisco

Forro – Serramar or Sweaty – choose wisely!

Forro is a traditional music and dance originating from Northeastern Brazil. Here in Jeri you can listen and dance Forro every night.

Forro Dona Amelia - Photo by Vila Kalango
Forro Dona Amelia / Sweaty Forro – Photo by Vila Kalango

The most popular spot is a restaurant called Dona Amelia, which has live Forro music and dance floor. At exactly 22:37 the restaurant dims the lights, moves the tables, and a live band starts playing on the traditional accordion, zambuba and triangle. It has rightfully earned the name “sweaty Forro”. If you don’t have enough dancing skills to strategically follow the oscillating fans, you’ll be sweaty within seconds…and that’s where Serramar comes in.

Entrance to Espaco Serramar - believe it or not there are good Forro dance parties behind this gate.
Entrance to Espaco Serramar – believe it or not there are good Forro dance parties behind this gate.

Espaco Serramar also has Forro nights with live music, but in an open-air atmosphere under the starlight sky overlooking Praia de Malhada and the Serrote hill. The Jeri winds keep you cool as you spin through the latest dance moves.

Panorama of Espaco Serramar during the day over-looking Praia de Malhada and the Serrote hill.
Panorama of Espaco Serramar during the day over-looking Praia de Malhada and the Serrote hill.

Dona Amelia has Forro on Wednesdays and Saturdays, while Espaco Serramar’s big nights are Sunday and Tuesday.

Windsurfing secrets – mix up the sports and spots

Thousands of windsurfers flock to Jeri every fall because the wind is relentless. This means you’ll be windsurfing every single day. Whether you’re renting or have your own gear with you, the pattern is the same; 10am the wind kicks in, windsurf all day, squeeze in lunch, and do it again until sunset. If you’re spending a lot of time in Jeri repetitively windsurfing the same spot can become uninspiring, so take the time to travel around a bit.

Phil Soltysiak Windsurfing alone at Praia de Maceio. Photo by Emanuela Cauli.
Phil Soltysiak Windsurfing alone at Praia de Maceio. Photo by Emanuela Cauli.

Mix up the spots – If you don’t want to pack up the gear and travel you have a few options. Cruise upwind 200m to Malhada for an onshore wave spot. Windsurf downwind of the dune, where the wind is stronger and there’s almost nobody on the water. My personal favourite is to go off and windsurf in the middle of the ocean. I sail downwind and far away from everybody to enjoy the big swell and steadier winds. Make sure to always bring a friend just in case something goes wrong!

If you don’t mind packing up and moving around, check out the lagoons, the Guriu river mouth, or venture out to Icaraizinho, Camocim or Maceio.

Early morning stand up paddling in Jericoacoara
Early morning stand up paddling in Jericoacoara

Windsurfing on a daily basis can take a toll on your body, even if you’re use to windsurfing all year long as I am. Mix up the sports! I find there is nothing more refreshing for your body than adding some other sports to your daily routine in Jeri. Enjoy the waves with your surf board or SUP, play some beach volleyball, join in on some pick-up football games on the beach at sunset, or sign up for Capoeira classes. Your windsurf abused body will thank you for moving it in other ways. Your mind will also be grateful for a break from thinking windsurfing, windsurfing, windsurfing.

Beach volleyball in Jeri - "I can't believe we didn't win that point" - Photo by Adrian Irvine
Beach volleyball in Jeri – “I can’t believe we didn’t win that point” – Photo by Adrian Irvine

My personal eat, sleep, windsurf routine is coming to a close here in Jeri. I only have 2 days left on the water. Soon it’s time to pack things up and head home to Canada for a few days of family Christmas time. Check in soon for more!